Wooden house - the construction itself is warm. That is why many city dwellers part with cramped apartments and move into suburban housing. Wooden buildings are convenient and practical, as well as environmental friendliness. In summer, pleasant coolness reigns here, and in winter it is warm. However, even the warmest wood will not protect against severe frosts and wind: you can not do without a heater for the ceiling of a wooden room.
Often, all heat loss from the inside is due to an improperly decorated ceiling. If you do not properly insulate this part of the house, you can not wait for coziness and comfort in the winter. Modern windows and wall insulation will not help, it all depends on the ceiling.
How to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house?
There are several affordable and simple ways to warm yourself inside and out with your own hands.All of them are divided into two options: insulation from the outside of the attic and indoors. By warming the surface from the inside, you need to understand that the height can decrease. If the floor of the attic is insulated, after all work it is necessary to make a floor covering.
Choosing the right material, you need to focus on the following indicators:
- strength and durability;
- lack of harm to health;
- fire resistance;
- reliable heat-insulating qualities;
- the presence of sound insulation.
What can be applied?
- mineral or glass wool;
- sawdust;
- polyurethane foam;
- Styrofoam;
- clay;
- expanded clay.
Use of sawdust
They are the cheapest and most affordable way of warming from the outside, while in terms of quality they are not inferior to expensive materials. The process itself is simple and does not require much time. Everything can be done with your own hands. First you should prepare the materials:
- several bags of sawdust;
- insulating material. It is necessary to calculate its right amount. To do this, you need to know exactly the surface area;
- cement.
The latter is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. How to calculate the right number of sawdust? One and a half buckets of water will be required for ten buckets of sawdust. A wet mixture should form, which will be a heater. What should be sawdust? The first ones are not suitable. The material must meet the following requirements:
- dryness, lack of moisture;
- age not less than a year;
- lack of mold and its smell;
- the average size. Small ones are not suitable, otherwise the thermal insulation qualities will deteriorate.
Sequencing:
- To clear a surface of dust, dirt.
- Treat the base with a special solution that protects the room and ceiling from fungi and insects.
- Take pre-prepared material for waterproofing and lay it over the entire space of the ceiling.
- Prepare a mixture of cement and sawdust. It should be a saturated gray color.
- Distribute the mixture throughout the entire ceiling space.
- You can walk around a layer of thermal insulation to ram it. This will allow the mixture to grip better and not allow heat to pass through.
If you have access to the attic of the room, this method is the most suitable and cheapest.If you have to carry out the insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house only from the inside, you have to choose another method.
What are good roll materials?
Mineral wool and glass wool, as well as other rolled heat insulators reliably protect the room, however it is difficult to work with them: small particles crumble and fall into the mouth, nose, eyes. In order not to get injured, you need to take care of yourself and prepare protective clothing, as well as glasses.
Sequence of steps:
- Nails are stuffed onto the rough surface. At the same time, one should not score a hat, but so that they stick out a little.Then the threads are pulled over them with the zigzag technique.
- The heater itself is laid. It’s better to do the work not only with one, but with a partner: one will lay the rolls and the other will pull the thread. So it will turn out to put glass wool better.
- The anti-condensation film is attached.
- Now you can nail nails harder to press the layer more tightly.
- You can nail sheets of drywall or fasten a false ceiling.
Caution: work requires caution and care. It is necessary to monitor the absence of gaps: they are a source of cold and the formation of condensate.
Clay
Widely known material that is able to retain heat. Used only when adding other materials. Usually sawdust and glassine are added.
Work sequence:
- put glassine or any other analogue thereof;
- mix clay and sawdust (prepare a solution);
- apply the mixture with a layer of 15 cm, allow to dry. If there are cracks, they need to be wiped with clay.
Insulation from the inside
What if there is no access to the space above the ceiling? There is an exit. True, you should be prepared for the fact that the height will decrease slightly. Now the insulation will be inside. How to carry out work?
It's simple: first comes a layer of vapor barrier, then insulation, then another layer of vapor barrier.
Why do we need two layers? They prevent the dampening of the rafters, the ceiling from the inside and the insulation. Only after this can a decorative ceiling be hemmed. How to do the work?
- The first vapor barrier is attached. All the same glassine will do. It can be smeared with glue in several places.
- Through the vapor barrier, a mounting rail is packed. It’s better not to rush and do everything as carefully as possible: holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the mounting rails, then you need to carefully pull them with a screwdriver.
- Thermal insulation is fixed. Polyfoam is inserted between the battens.
- A second layer of vapor barrier is attached to the rail.
- The whole structure is masked by PVC panels.
Expanded clay
Another simplest and most affordable method after sawdust. Pros:
- ecologicaly clean;
- unlike sawdust it does not burn;
- resistant to temperature extremes;
- not afraid of rodents, fungi and insects;
- simple installation technology;
- low price;
- easy to do by yourself.
All work is carried out outside. First, the already mentioned steam and waterproofing are carried out. Even a simple PVC film will do. It is better not to use roofing material: it can release harmful toxins. Stages of work:
- The pipe outlet and wiring are insulated with non-combustible materials. Iron sheets or metal pipes will do.
- Waterproofing rolls out over the entire area. Joints must be processed. Waterproofing is securely fixed with a stapler or special tape.
- Steam insulation is laid. Overlapping technology is suitable. Then everything is fixed with a stapler.
- On a layer of vapor barrier, lay 5 cm of mashed soft clay.
- Expanded clay already pours out on clay. How to determine the thickness of the layer? It can be from 15 cm and more.
- Screed is laid on expanded clay - a layer of cement and sand. This will protect the material.
Some useful tips
- There is a foam ceiling tile - it in itself protects quite well from the cold.
- Do not dwell on the insulation of the ceiling. Walls and floors can also let heat through.
- If you experience difficulties with warming with your own hands, it is better to contact the masters who will do everything correctly. An unreliably insulated ceiling is practically of no use.
- Drywall filing requires the use of a galvanized iron profile. Why is this needed? If you do not, you can soon suffer from a fallen structure.
- In a wooden house, it is better to insulate the ceiling in the summer months, so that by the fall and cold weather the excess moisture has time to evaporate.
Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house will protect the room from the inside from heat loss. If the ceiling is not insulated, you should do all the work right away to check in.