Atlant washing machines were loved by users for their good technical specifications, modern design and affordable price category. Unfortunately, in many respects they cannot compete with foreign analogues, especially when it comes to durability.
It is often simpler to entrust the repair of the washing machine to a good master, but in some cases you can repair the Atlant washing machines with your own hands.
In this article, you will learn about typical breakdowns, trouble codes, and how to disassemble the Atlant washing machine and do it yourself.
Classification of typical breakdowns of Atlant cars
The occurrence of one or another malfunction of the user is notified by characteristic symptoms that can be noticed at one of the stages of the machine - during washing, water, rinsing or spinning. The workshops often receive complaints about such breakdowns of washing machines by the Atlant automatic machine:
- The Atlant washing machine does not turn on. This may be caused by a damaged outlet or wiring. A broken start button is another indicator of a failure. A failure of the electronic controller is not excluded.
- Lingerie does not push up. Taking out very wet laundry from the drum, one can judge that the engine is out of order or the contacts on it are oxidized. A breakdown can cause, as in the case above, a breakdown of the board. If the spin does not start at all, then the laundry in the drum could become confused in one lump, which caused an imbalance (try loading the drum with things of the same size, since a pile of things of different sizes are perfectly intertwined, provoking an imbalance of the drum).
- Water is in the tank and does not drain. You need to look for the cause in the drain pump (pump) or drain hose, which could become clogged over the years of service.
- The machine rumbles during the spin cycle, vibrates and moves. This "inappropriate behavior" requires replacement of bearings.
- In all modes, washing is done in cold water. If the water does not heat up, this is most often caused by a burnt out heater; more rarely, a malfunction of the temperature sensor or controller.
- The machine is flowing. It all depends on WHERE it flows: at the bottom of the machine, from the hatch or in the powder cassette. Depending on the location, replacement of parts is required: a waste water drain hose, nozzles, gaskets or cuffs.
Most breakdowns are triggered by elementary causes:
- Foreign objects in the drum (filter, drain hose, pump).
- An excess of powder, rinse aid and other detergents.
- Water is too hard.
- Premature wear of parts.
- Violation of the operating rules specified in the instructions for the Atlant washing machine and others.
How to find out damage: Atlant error codes
If error codes are displayed on the control panel screen (Sel, None, F2, F3, F4, F5, F6, F7, F8, F9, F10, F12, F13, F14 or F15), then the machine is signaling you about a breakdown. The reasons for these failures are briefly disclosed in the table:
The code | Decryption |
Sel | The interface module selector is broken. This item needs to be replaced. |
None | Increased foaming. There are three reasons for this:
In this case, it is necessary to reduce the amount of powder, change the product or wash in other modes. |
F2 | Damage to the temperature sensor. The sensor itself could “fly”, break down contacts or wires. May indicate a failure of the heater. |
F3 | Failure of the thermoelectric heater (PETN). TEN needs to be replaced. |
F4 | Damage to the drain pump (drain pump). There are many reasons for this failure: a blockage or incorrect installation of the waste water drain hose, clogging of the coupling, breakdown of the pump, malfunction of the electronics. Repair depends on the diagnostic results. You may need to change the drain pump. |
F5 | Fill valve - cause breakdown. A blockage could occur or the hose could break. Also, an error occurs when the pressure in the water supply system is low or the control module breaks down. Self-repair or in the workshop - it depends on the nature of the identified breakdown. |
F6 | Failure in the electric motor. The motor must be replaced with a new one. |
F7 | Damage to the electrics. In some cases, it is enough to replace the interference filter, test whether there is voltage in the mains or replace the electronic board. |
F8 | Water search in the tank. Culprits: water level sensor (pressure switch), filler valve, wiring that could burn out or contacts that have oxidized due to high humidity. Depressurization of the cylinder or a malfunction in the controller are also quite possible reasons. |
F9 | Damage to the tachometer. If you started a repair at home, you will have to check the wiring and contacts with a tester, and maybe replace the engine. Failure of the controller can also mean an F9 error, but self-replacement of the module is a difficult task. |
F10 | Lock failure, which is also related to board failure. |
F12 | Motor triat failed. Requires replacement of an engine or controller. |
F13 | Means a whole range of breakdowns. First you need to check the contacts and wiring, and if the reason for the breakdown of the module is established, it is worth calling a specialist. |
F14 | Software crash. It is recommended to restart the program. In severe cases, repair or replacement of the board is needed. |
F15 | The machine is flowing. This is caused by a violation of the tightness of the drum, wear of the cuff, drain hose, nozzles or couplings. The malfunction is easier to identify by localizing the leak. |
door | The castle is broken. You may have locked the hatch badly. Also, an error occurs if the wires go off or the board burns out. |
Important! Self-diagnosis of SM Atlant is possible not only in models with electronic scoreboards. In electromechanical models, an error is indicated by indicators blinking in a certain sequence or combination.
Damage to Atlant cars: repairing yourself
Malfunctions of Atlant washing machines and their elimination - your main problem today? Sequentially consider common failures.
SMA Atlant does not start
If you could not turn on the washer, then start by checking the outlet using any other working electrical appliance.
If the outlet is working, then proceed to check the surge protector and controller. The entire electrical component of the machine is hidden under the top cover - it is easy to remove: just unscrew the 2 bolts.
Having found an electrician, check the wiring and terminals - you will notice oxidized or burnt out components with the naked eye. Having carefully examined everything, arm yourself with a tester and ring the line filter and cable. If the cable is defective, change it. Often stores offer cable already complete with a surge protector - if you need to replace both parts, you will save a lot.
If you understand that it’s not a matter of electrics, but of electronics, which is also confirmed by the inoperative button to start the washer, be prepared for the fact that repairing yourself in this case is almost impossible. You need good knowledge of not only the electrical circuit of the Atlant washing machine, but also the electronics. It is better to trust the master - repair can be much cheaper than eliminating the consequences after an independent intervention in the electronics.
TEN: independent check and replacement
Partial disassembly of the Atlant washing machine is ahead. To find the heater, check it and replace it, follow this scenario:
- Remove the back cover.
- Find a heater (usually located under the drum). First you need the terminals of the water heater.
- Remove all wires. Remove the terminals from the temperature sensor, if in your case it is built into the heater itself. In certain models, the washer thermal sensor is not built into the heater and is installed near it.
- Having taken the necessary tool, gradually unscrew the bolt in the center of the shank. Turn the nut a couple of turns to the left. After that, try to direct it inside the case.
Important! In SMA Atlas, it is not always easy to remove the heater due to damage to the rubber of the sealant. Be patient, take care.
- Take a slotted screwdriver (minus) and hook the heater by the base. Slowly loosening the part, remove it, pulling it towards you.
- The new heater is installed in the same way as the old one is removed. Before performing this operation, clear the installation site of debris.
In this video, an example of an Indesit machine is shown replacing the heater:
Temperature and level sensors in the Atlant machine: check and replacement
Damage to the water level sensor (pressure switch) is most often manifested during the collection and discharge of water from the machine. The sensor must inform the controller of the level of water that has been collected so that it stops the recruitment process and the tank is not overfilled. In the same way, the sensor informs the module that the water is not drained, so the machine cannot spin the laundry. If the sensor fails, then no signals are given - you need to check and change the sensor.
Speaking about the failure of the temperature sensor, the trouble is that with its breakdown the washing machine heats the water too much or, on the contrary, does not heat it at all. Identify the health of the sensor as follows:
- Remove the back panel and remove the sensor (from the heater or tank, depending on where it is located in your CMA Atlant model).
- Arm yourself with a tester and check the resistance. After that, immerse the sensor in water and warm it slightly for a couple of minutes. Heating temperature sensor, measure resistance again. If the measurements are significantly different, then everything works as it should (and then the damage must be sought in the heater or controller). If the data is the same, then the sensor needs to be replaced.
Important! When removing the sensor, mark the terminals. While you buy a new one, you can forget where and what was.
How to fix breakdowns in the drain and water intake system yourself
If the washer stops draining the waste water, then the first thing to inspect is the water drain hose, then the filter and the drain pump. If small debris gets in the filter, which eventually accumulates there, the machine cannot push water. As a result, it can all end not only with the fact that the water does not merge, but also with a complete stop of the machine.
That is why it is recommended to check the pockets of clothes before washing.
Cleaning the drain filter should tightly fit into your schedule of household chores - this will help protect the SM from breakdowns, blockages and unnecessary expenses for repairs. And cleaning the hose takes no more than two hours. The pump (drain pump) in all Atlant machines is located at the bottom of the casing to get it, just put the machine on its side and get to the pump from the bottom.
The filter, hose and pump must not only be cleaned of debris and dirt, but also rinsed under running water.
If you need to replace the drain suction, the video will help to do it correctly:
Water intake system - weak point in the Atlant car
Speaking about the excess of water into the drum, the valve may be to blame. It is located on the rear panel - it is easy to find, because a water intake hose is attached to it on the body.
Before checking the valve, turn off the power to the machine and disconnect it from the water supply, and then remove the top panel of the body. Then you need to remove all the wires and check the valve resistance level with a tester - the indicator should be in the region of 2-4 Ohms. If the values are different, you need to replace the valve according to this scheme:
- Remove the hoses from the valve by loosening the clamps (remember, take a picture or draw a diagram of their location).
- Remove the bolts holding the valve. If the valve is held by latches, release them.
- Turn the valve and pull it towards you to remove it.
- Take a new part, install and reassemble everything in reverse order. Remember that the valve does not repair, so do not waste power.
This useful video demonstrates how to replace the filling valve with your own hands: